Sunday, April 18, 2010

Morellino Value




Been getting some really gratifying values at Rosemont Market. To me this is unquestionably the Portland area's best wine store, as buyer John Naylor has the best palate around. This 2006 Morellino from Bruni gives a slightly austere impression at first. (Especially if you make the mistake of trying it after you polish off the last of yesterday's soft and juicy new world bottle, as we had the misfortune of doing.) However, after a half hour of air time, the depth and length of this really well-constructed wine start to show. Glossy dark cherry fruit and savory lip-smacking fine tannins lead to a nicely judged spicy finish. Imagine a good riserva Chianti with about 30% merlot, and you will get the right idea. Highly recommended for the price - $13 - $15. Anyone who loves Tuscan wines should try this.

Other super values recently purchased there include the 2008 Wallace Brook Oregon Pinot Gris - Adelsheim negociant bottling, I think - for $7.99, and an aging but still-hanging-on 2006 Bourgogne blanc from Matrot at twelve or thirteen bucks. The latter tastes like low-grade Meursault, and may well be.