Friday, March 18, 2011

Red Wine Flavors, White Wine Structure

This wine is a great example of "less is more." It's a 2009 Schiava "Römigberg" from Tenutae Lageder. I first had it at the recommendation of John Naylor at Rosemont Market, after I asked him for something that would be good with (nearly raw) seared tuna. This was his pick, and it was spot on. Since then we've had it twice more and it has never failed to bring smiles to our faces and emptiness to our glasses. I'm an advocate of Alto Adige wines, and even I would probably never have picked this off the shelf on my own (unless it were due to the stunning packaging), so I'm glad I was prodded.


The Alto Adidge is at the very top of the Italian boot, near the Austrian and Swiss borders, and the transparency of this wine seems to evoke the cool and thin alpine air. Structurally, it's more white than red. (Not that there's anything wrong with that!) Hardly any tannins are to be found, but good, crisp acidity keeps the lips smacking. Indeed, this is about the very palest "red" wine I've ever seen. That notwithstanding, it's one of the brightest and most brilliant. For all intents and purposes it's a rosé, but what a good rose it is. My photo here does not in any way do it justice. It's very pretty in the glass. The bouquet has strawberry, tea, and licorice notes. On the palate there is intense freshness and delicacy. I wouldn't expect it to keep these qualities for more than another six months or so, so get it now and enjoy. Serve at cellar temperature - in the 50s F.